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Old 11-03-2007, 03:32 PM   #1
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clicky starter self fix and headlight relay

OK i have seen the questions on here a million (maybe less) times. "Where do i get a clicky starter fix?" or "How i run a relay for my headlights or offroad lights?". This will be my first "how-to" here so be patient.



1, "WHAT IS A RELAY AND WHY USE IT"

A relay is typically used to control a component that draws high amperage. The relay allows full power to the component without needing a switch or wiring that can carry the amperage. The switch only controls the relay. The relay then provides a direct connection to the battery.


2, "WHAT CAN A RELAY BE USED FOR"

A relay can be used to control any component that draws high amperage. I personally have used relays for elect fans, starters, air horns and lights but the uses are about endless.


3, "HOW DO I CONTROL A RELAY" (pay close attention here and you will be amazed at how simple this is!!!!!)


A relay can be switched by a positive or a negative source. (Yes i said negative source or "GROUND START" see note 5 below) A relay is simply a remote switch controlled by another switch. By applying power to a positive start relay you are simply telling the relay to close the switch within the relay. A ground start relay already has a positive source supplied and you are closing the circuit by supplying a ground (ie a thermostatically controlled fan or horn)


4, "WHAT THE ^%(*& ARE ALL THESE CONNECTIONS"

the power connection (86) and ground(85) connection in the relay (85) are the control or low amperage side. These are the ones that control the relay. (86) would be the one connected to the wire that you remove from the starter for the clicky fix and (85) would be a chassis ground. When 12v is applied to the control side (86) it closes the switch or CONTROLLED side of the relay.





The power SUPPLY connection (30) and switched power or load (87) connection in the relay. The power (30) connection should go to a fused power source with significant wire and fuse to carry the load of whatever you are trying to power. You can go straight to the battery with either an inline fuse

or a fuseable link (not easy to replace on the trail). I suggest the inline fuse. The load (87) connection goes to whatever you are trying to power(ie CONNECTION WHERE YOU TOOK THE OTHER WIRE OFF THE STARTER FOR THE CLICKY FIX, lights, air horn, compressor, elect fan ect).

5, "WHAT IS A GROUND START CIRCUIT AND HOW DO I USE IT?"
This is pretty simple also. As you know you need 2 things in a circuit. Power and ground. In a "GROUND START" circuit the power connection (86) will have constant power and ground(85) connection will go to you switch or control. For example: Wiring electric fans, (86) will have fused power preferably from a source that is powered with your ignition switch in the run position. (85) will go to a temperature switch in your block that grounds out at a set temperature. Supply (30) and load (87) will be as above. Keep in mind the load (87) will only supply the fans with power. You will still need to ground the other lead on the fan motor.




6, MOST IMPORTANT BASIC WIRING TIP

This is pretty simple BUT OFTEN MISSED POINT. Do not run big wire as a lead to anything if you are going to skimp on the ground. A ground is just as important as the power supply (RUN THE SAME SIZE WIRE). Clean your grounding surface before attaching the ground and make a secure connection.



7, CAN I RUN HI AND LO BEAMS WITH A RELAY??? YES

This is also pretty simple. as you noticed above we didn't use the powered off connection (87a). If you so desire you can run 2 relays with one sending power from its switched (87) to (30) on a second relay. The second relay would work as your hi-lo relay



7, CAN I RUN HI AND LO BEAMS AT THE SAME TIME WITH A RELAY??? YES

This CAN BE DONE BUT NOT RECOMENDED WITH THE SAMI ALTERNATOR OR FOR BEGINNER WIRE NUTS. All you have to do is add a diode to the above circuit. Radioshack can supply you with the correct diode. A diode is easily understood like a one way swinging gate. if you have one this will be VERY clear. when you go out the gate it swings easily and out of your way, BUT when you are in a hurry and try to go the wrong way you end up with a face full of of wood or chainlink. A diode only allows power to go one way.




LAST BUT NOT LEAST HERE IS WHAT EVERYONE HAS BEEN WAITING FOR THE "CLICKY STARTER FIX"




GRAYWOLF GRAPHICS WILL NOT BE HALD RESPONSIBLE FOR AND DAMAGE DONE WHILE ATTEMPTING THE ABOVE HOW-TO. IT IS FOR INFORMATIONAL USE ONLY. PLEASE ENJOY THIS HOW-TO AS IT IS INTENDED FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO SAY "I DID THAT" BUT IF YOU STILL FEEL SQUEEMISH ABOUT ATTEMPTING IT YOURSELF THE CLICKY FIX CAN BE BOUGHT FOR ABOUT $15

Last edited by GRAYWOLFGRAPHICS; 11-03-2007 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 11-03-2007, 08:03 PM   #2
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Nice write up
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Old 11-03-2007, 10:15 PM   #3
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Nice!!

I am going to move this in the FAQ section.
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Old 11-03-2007, 10:45 PM   #4
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Thanks Joe just doing what the site is all about. Sharing information.
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Old 11-04-2007, 12:02 AM   #5
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thanks graywolf!!!!!!
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Old 11-04-2007, 11:16 AM   #6
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very good tech info!!
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:36 PM   #7
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on the starter fix are you jumping 30 to 87??
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:49 PM   #8
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sorry no that just shows the path power is traveling.
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Old 11-06-2007, 10:58 AM   #9
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ok thanks i have to make one today and i just wanted to make sure
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:39 PM   #10
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i just got my relay and what not to fix my starter but the #'s don't match u pto yours this is what the side of the relay says




do i do it like yours and just fix the # or are your #'s correct
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:40 AM   #11
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87a is normaly closed. the above diagram shows what hapens when you apply 12V to the coil ( 85,86)
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:47 AM   #12
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i talked to Graywolf on sat he helped me out and I got togo wheelin on sunday thanks for the help man.

and now that I know.. I now have 4 complet clicky fixes if any one needs one pm me
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:15 PM   #13
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IM jelous. Ive had my sami torn apart so many time to mod this and that i havent driven it but about 10 miles.
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:33 PM   #14
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now i just need to fix my leaky master .... my leaky exausht... get a lift and tires and get a new top and i'll be good
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:36 AM   #15
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hey grey how would you use this with toggles im wiring illiterit(spell) and i suck at spelling!
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Old 03-07-2008, 02:52 AM   #16
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On the relay, 86 would be your switch source, so you would run a fused constant 12v source to the toggle, then from your toggle, you would run it to your "86" on the relay.

If you remind me, I can show you how I wired mine so that you can't crank it unless the ignition is on.
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Old 03-07-2008, 03:09 AM   #17
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Sorry to thread jack, but there is something I want to add, so everyone can determine the correct size fuse for your need.

Simple formula for converting watts to amps.
Usable Wattage / Power in Volts = Current in Amps.

So lets say for 2 simple 55 watt foglights:
2 x 55 = 110 usable watts.
110W / 14.4v = 8A

In this situation, you would only need to run a 10A fuse.

If you have 2 100 watt lights:
200W / 14.4v = 13.8A

Here, you would want to run a 15 amp fuse.
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:02 PM   #18
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Does this apply?

Does anyone know if this clicky fix applies to an 89 kick 1.6L? I just had my Samurai start this $#!t.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:14 PM   #19
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As a side note to the above diagrams. I found a good source for the switched power. There is an unused switched power lead in the wire harness under the steering column. It goes into one side of the harness and isnt used on the other side of the plug. its red with a blue stripe and only has power when ign is in on or acc position. would be a good spot to connec your switch power. NOT the relay main power. Would assure your accessories are off when switch is off.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:39 PM   #20
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funny timing, we were just looking at all the relays I have put under my hood
the list is
1 for KC lights
1 for fog lights
1 for electric fan
1 for electric fuel pump
1 for rock lights
1 for click fix
1 for alarm cut off
and I think I'm forgeting a few
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:45 PM   #21
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see you can run the switch power to that wire i noted and it will turn everything off with the key
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:37 AM   #22
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I got a question, I know this thread is old but very informative. If you run multiple relays, can you run a "terminal block" to power all the relays, and one bigger wire to the power?
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:32 PM   #23
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yes, maybe this spread sheet will help others on wire size too.

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:07 PM   #24
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okay i have to ask what the hell is this clicky start .. mine does something like a clicky start but i dont know if it what this fixes or if it even needs to be fixed... i have a gm alt also... is it just when you go to start it and it just clicks once and doesnt turn the starter ? if so mine does this once in awhile but i just turn the key again once or twice and it starts cranking .. it happens like once in 20 starts maybe ... should i even bother doing the clicky start fix ?
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Old 03-16-2011, 11:29 AM   #25
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I guess i dont get updates on this thread anymore, But yes that is the clicky starty issue your having. Its a glitch in the factory wiring, The starter solinoid isnt getting enough power to turn atcuate it.
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