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Old 03-17-2008, 09:18 PM   #1
Itsmejoe231
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Link Calculator How Too

I am going to try to help those that have questions about the link calculator. I am not an expert and have minimal knowledge but I think I can help with the basic questions.

I would like to give thanks to the guys that took the time to make the calculator and allow us to use it to make our wheeling experience better.





It is hard to see in this pic but when you open the calculator you will see light blue highlighted cells. these are the cells that you will put your measurements.

Enter in your vehicle specs. The tire rolling radius is half the diameter of your tire size minus the distance your tire squats after airing down.

If you put your mouse pointer over the cells that have the small red triangle in the upper right hand corner a message should pop up. That message is a description of what measurement you should put in that cell.

The best way I have found is to write down all the measurements needed from all the pop ups before hand and then go and take each measurement.

There is not a step by step instructions in building a 3 or 4 link suspension. You have to take a lot of things into consideration. Ride height, wheelbase, springs or air shocks are a few.

I am sure I am missing a bunch of stuff and will add to it as I remember stuff and anyone that wants to add to this is more than welcome.

Here is the original thread started by Triaged on Pirate. It is a long read but well worth it. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

There is a link to the calculator in his signature or you can download it from here. Excel 4-link calculator Excel 3-link + Panhard calculator BETA Version
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Old 03-18-2008, 03:15 PM   #2
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I am in the middle of this right now and am curious what to shoot for on the anti-squat and roll axis. I know my anti squat is between 100-110. Is this good or bad? thanks mikeb
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:36 PM   #3
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THANK YOU... How do I figure out what my center of gravity is? I was told you do not want 100% antisquat you want around 70?
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:40 PM   #4
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From what I have read and asking others, anywhere between 60 to 80 anti squat depending on what type of wheeling you do.

You roll axis should be 0 or as close to it as possible. This is the rear steer while articulating.

Anti squat is the reaction you suspension does when you give it the gas. 100% AS your rear will want to lift and you axle will want to drive out from under you.

0 or no anti squat your rig will want to drop down in the rear. You want a happy medium.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:48 PM   #5
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Drag you mouse over the cell in the calculator for CG and it will tell you to measure from the ground to the top bolt in you bell housing on your transmission. This is close enough...

This is another reason it is important to plan everything in advance especially ride height, wheelbase and what size tires you are going to run.
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Old 03-18-2008, 06:55 PM   #6
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What if you dont know what the ride hieght will be? I also guessed my weight at 4000 lbs. I am not sure if that is a good guess or not? 4 door Tracker, 4.3, 700R4, dual toy,s, Toy axles, EXO? I also dont know the unsprung weights with out scales on all corners.
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Old 03-18-2008, 07:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by POWERSTROKEN View Post
What if you dont know what the ride hieght will be?

I also guessed my weight at 4000 lbs. I am not sure if that is a good guess or not? 4 door Tracker, 4.3, 700R4, dual toy,s, Toy axles, EXO? I also dont know the unsprung weights with out scales on all corners.
This is where you get to experiment with the calculator and do some educated guesses.

Start you CG height at 36 and adjust it later as you know more. 4000 pounds is a good start.

The unsprung weight is whatever your axles and tires weigh. I guessed at mine but i am sure I am off quite a bit. I figured 500 for the front and 300 rear. I am sure if researched hard enough someone could find the weight of toyota axles and guess on the tires. I think my tires are just over 100 pounds each. These number do matter but are not gonna change you anti-squat to much at the beginning.
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Old 03-19-2008, 11:42 AM   #8
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Well...looks like my roll center is good but the anti-squat not so good. I guess now is the time to realize this instead of having everything together and have to redo it all. thanks for the info. mikeb
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:47 PM   #9
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Great info! Thanks for helping de-mystify the link calculator.

One suggestion though... you may want to add a link to where the calculator can be found!
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:21 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Gearhead61 View Post
Great info! Thanks for helping de-mystify the link calculator.

One suggestion though... you may want to add a link to where the calculator can be found!
I edited the first post with the information.
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Old 03-20-2008, 08:14 PM   #11
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If I don't used A straight piece of tubing for the bottom link in the rear and I put A bend in the tubing for better ground clearence will that change the link calculator? Or is the angle of the two mounting points all that matters? Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:38 AM   #12
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Yep, angle between the two mounting points.

I have seen that kind of set up, those links have to be beefy.
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Old 03-21-2008, 09:46 AM   #13
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Thanks, thats good to know I don't know much about links. Running this stuff threw my mine I would have thought that axle would have push on the frame different using the bar with the bend in it and would have change the link calculator.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:17 PM   #14
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What kind of anti-squat are you looking for on the front axle? I have kinda figured out how i want it but i need to know what im shooting for. thanks mikeb
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:42 PM   #15
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Hey guys im not an expert on this buy far. But i have a friend that builds buggys and some of the best dirt cars i have seen and he always told me the best way to figure the links is to build your bottom ones first and the top ones should be at least 70% of the length of the bottom ones. It seems to work pretty good.
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:21 PM   #16
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Last edited by SMOKA; 06-24-2008 at 04:23 PM. Reason: error
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Old 06-29-2008, 05:22 PM   #17
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A couple of tips for linkers out there.

Tire height should be actual MEASURED height of YOUR tires. Don't go by half the advertised size, or your cousin's buddies tires for this, you'll be off.

Anti-squat #'s should be 60%-80% for most rigs, but it's important to build adjustability into the link mounts, and the axle mounts, so you can try different settings. Not all rigs/drivers will like, say, 72% AS.

Personally, I don't like bent links. I feel that you have engineered a weak point in doing a bend and would rather keep the links straight. I'm not saying that bent links don't/can't work or that guys don't build them strong enough, but the ones I've seen are a compromise of bad design or laziness.

Upper link length should be 70% (+- 5%) of lower link length, and can be made lighter duty than the lowers. My personal trucks upper links are 1.5x.120 DOM tube with JJ and are going strong. Obviously not threatened by rock hits, you can save some weight/space/money by going smaller on the uppers. Lowers, I wouldn't go any thinner than .250 DOM tube for strength reasons.

Buy the highest quality joints you can afford. Notice I didn't say most expen$ive. Just 'cause their pricey, doesn't mean their the best. Personally, I like the Currie Johnny Joints for their strength, size, price and rebuildability( is that a word?). And, you don't have to play with mis-alignment spacers during installation.

Weld-in bungs for your links are worth the money. They're easy, strong and not too expensive. Not that drilling/tapping the tube for the joint doesn't work, but the inserts are faster and cleaner. Put four plug welds into the body of them and weld the tops all around and you've got a very strong connection, along with the thread contact of the joint.


Do ALOT of research before you start a project like this. There are alot of good books, internet articles and web-threads on the subject, so learn how to read and do some homework.

Oh, and listen to your moderator. Everything he says is true!
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:48 PM   #18
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what books are you talking about. Ive read lots of internet articles but would love to have a book.

Will
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Old 07-08-2008, 05:46 PM   #19
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I'm sorry, I used to have a list of chassis books, but not sure what happened. Alot of them where for cars, like road course stuff or drag racing, but the theory is similar. They still determine suspension placement and action. You'll have to search for them, but they're out there. You can try a Borders book store, in the automotive/transportation section.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:12 AM   #20
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i would like to bring this thread back to life.

Which antisquat number is more critical, static or travel?
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